Postcards from Portofino
Exploring Portofino and Santa Margherita Ligure
There are places that leave a lasting impression long after you've packed your suitcase. Not because they're loud or extravagant, but because they invite you to slow down.
The Ligurian Coast is exactly that kind of place.
Nestled between emerald hills and the shimmering Mediterranean, colourful fishing villages meet elegant harbours, hidden coves, and some of Italy's most beautiful coastal walks. It feels effortlessly chic without ever trying too hard, a destination where mornings begin with an espresso overlooking the sea and evenings end with aperitivos as fishing boats gently return to the harbour.
For us, it perfectly captures the spirit of MATIA: timeless, relaxed, and beautifully understated.
Why We Love Santa Margherita Ligure
While Portofino often steals the spotlight, we'd actually recommend making Santa Margherita Ligure your home base.
It has all the charm of the Italian Riviera while feeling more authentic and relaxed. Colourful facades line the waterfront promenade, locals gather in cafés every morning, and everything is within walking distance, from boutiques and bakeries to hidden beaches and waterfront restaurants.
Best of all, you're only minutes away from Portofino while enjoying a much calmer atmosphere and often better-value accommodation. It feels lived in rather than curated. And that's exactly why we love it.
Getting There
One of the reasons the Ligurian Coast is such an effortless European escape is how accessible it is.
The nearest airport is Genoa Cristoforo Colombo Airport (GOA), approximately 40 minutes by car from Santa Margherita Ligure. From there, you can either rent a car, arrange a private transfer, or take the train, which is both efficient and wonderfully scenic.
If you're travelling from further afield, Milan's airports are another excellent option, with around a two-hour drive to the coast.
During the summer months, however, the Italian Riviera becomes incredibly popular. Roads can be busy, parking is often limited and expensive, and the charming streets of Portofino are best explored on foot anyway. Unless you're planning to venture further inland, having your own car isn't necessarily an advantage.
Once you've arrived, you'll quickly discover that the train, local ferries, and scenic coastal walking paths connect the towns beautifully.
In fact, travelling by boat between Santa Margherita Ligure, Portofino, and San Fruttuoso is not only convenient but one of the most memorable ways to experience this stretch of coastline.
The Magic of Portofino
Yes, it's famous. Yes, it's often photographed. And yes, it really is that beautiful.
Portofino is best experienced early in the morning before the day-trippers arrive or in the late afternoon when the golden light settles over the harbour. Spend time wandering the narrow streets, browse the small boutiques, enjoy a leisurely lunch overlooking the marina, and don't forget to walk up to Castello Brown for one of the most spectacular views across the bay.
Sometimes, doing very little becomes the highlight of the day.
The Walk Everyone Should Do
One of our favourite experiences is the coastal walk connecting Santa Margherita Ligure and Portofino. The trail winds through Mediterranean pine forests, passes elegant villas, and constantly opens up to breathtaking sea views.
Along the way, you'll find small places to stop for a swim before continuing your walk into Portofino. Comfortable sandals, a swimsuit underneath a comfy shirt, and no particular schedule, that's our kind of day.
A Day at Sea
The Ligurian Coast is best appreciated from the water.
Whether you rent a small boat for the day or join a local excursion, seeing Portofino, San Fruttuoso and the dramatic coastline from the sea offers a completely different perspective. Anchor in one of the hidden bays, jump into crystal-clear water, and spend the afternoon drifting between swimming, reading, and long lunches. Sometimes the simplest days become the most memorable.
Explore Kim Top and Henry Bottom in Capri Shade
Where to Swim
While this stretch of coastline isn't known for endless sandy beaches, it's home to some of the most breathtaking swimming spots we've ever discovered. Crystal-clear water, hidden coves, and cliffs make every swim feel like a little adventure.
Our favorites include:
Paraggi Beach - Famous for its striking emerald-green water, Paraggi is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful beaches along the Ligurian Coast. It also happens to be one of the most exclusive. During the summer months, the private beach clubs can charge anywhere between €140 and €350 per day for two sunbeds and an umbrella, depending on the season and location. There is a very small public beach (Spiaggia Libera), but it fills up quickly during peak season. If visiting Paraggi is on your list, we highly recommend arriving early or reserving your beach club well in advance.
San Fruttuoso - A secluded bay nestled between lush green hills, accessible only by boat or via a scenic hiking trail. With its crystal-clear water and historic abbey overlooking the beach, it feels like stepping into another world.
The rocky swimming platforms around Santa Margherita Ligure – Skip the crowds and do as the locals do. Spend an afternoon diving straight into the Mediterranean from the rocky shoreline, soaking up the sun, and enjoying the simple beauty of the Italian Riviera.
Pack a good book, your favourite MATIA swimsuit, sunscreen, a good lunch and don't rush. Some of the best moments on the Ligurian Coast happen between swims, with nowhere else to be until the sun begins to set.
Shop Bella Black Ribbed - Balconette Bikini Top
What to Eat
As with much of Italy, life on the Ligurian Coast revolves around food, but never in a hurry. Here, every meal is an occasion, every coffee is savoured, and every aperitivo is an invitation to slow down just a little more.
We love to start our mornings early, before the streets begin to fill. There's something incredibly peaceful about wandering through the quiet lanes of Santa Margherita Ligure while the sea is still calm, stopping at a local café for a perfectly made cappuccino. And whatever you do, don't skip the pastry counter. A warm croissant - my favourite is pistachio - still fresh from the oven, quickly became our morning ritual that's simply non-negotiable.
Lunch is rarely planned. Instead, we love strolling to the local bakery to pick up freshly baked focaccia, seasonal fruit, local cheese, a handful of Ligurian olives, and, of course, a little something sweet before finding a quiet spot by the sea.
If you're dining out, keep it simple. The freshest ingredients always speak for themselves. Be sure to try fresh Pesto alla Genovese, this is where it originate, alongside handmade pasta, grilled seafood caught that very morning, or a classic Focaccia di Recco, a local speciality filled with warm, creamy cheese.
As the day slowly turns to evening, there's no better place to be than along the waterfront. Order an Aperol Spritz, a chilled glass of local Vermentino, or your favourite aperitivo, accompanied by a few olives or small bites, and watch the fishing boats gently drift back into the harbour.
It's these little rituals, the early coffees, bakery stops, leisurely lunches, and unhurried evenings, that make the Ligurian Coast feel so unforgettable. Not because they're extravagant, but because they remind you how beautiful the simple things can be.
Don't leave without trying
Fresh Ligurian pesto (this is where it was born)
Focaccia Genovese straight from the bakery
Seafood pasta
Local olive oil
Lemon granita on a warm afternoon
An Aperol Spritz or Ligurian white wine as the sun goes down
Meals aren't rushed here. They're part of the experience. Perhaps the real beauty of the Ligurian Coast isn't found on a map. It's found in the slower rhythm of life.
MATIA's Riviera Essentials
If we were packing for a few days on the Ligurian Coast, we'd keep it simple. After all, the best trips are the ones where you pack light, leave room for spontaneity, and spend more time soaking up the moment than deciding what to wear.
Your favourite MATIA swimsuits
A crisp oversized shirt
Comfortable leather sandals
Your favorite Sneakers for a hike and longer Seaside walks
A woven beach tote
A good book
Sunglasses
SPF
Your favorite partner in crime and nowhere esle to be.
We'll see you on the Italian Riviera. Amore, Matia